We climbed a bolted line just left of the left facing corner that begins the regular route. This leads up to the first roof and is probably 5.10+ face climbing. There is a crux at the bottom and one in the middle, then another move at the top. The rock was cold so it made for wooden fingered face climbing. Make a gear belay below the 2nd roof by the chopped bolt anchor.

The second roof is an awkward side pull, stemming move and is bolt protected. Looks like the bolt has taken a beating in its time. There is good gear in the crack just above. (#3 Camalot) Continue up the corner to a one bolt and gear anchor.

Stay in the corner and traverse under the third roof. this was seeping water, but was not slippery for the feet. good protection along the roof. Join with Sea of Dreams and climb up to the bolted belay station.

Climb the crack on the left to the top, about 45m.

This climb has a few good pitches, plenty of True Grit cheese grater climbing and some route finding. The crux pitch has the most interesting climbing, with a short, steep corner crack, a hand traverse, then some cheese grater traversing to the bolted belay. Move left in to the next corner system when possible after this belay and follow the system up until you connect with Geriatric. Overall this one doesn't go on the favourite list.

Climb the first 4 pitches as per the Yamnuska guidebook. The cruxes are stiff! You have to do several moves after the 5.11b crux to get to the next bolt, otherwise the climbing is well protected. Bolts on the 4th pitch are widely spaced. The crux on the 4th pitch is gear protected and takes good gear.

We joined the 5th and 6th pitches on a single rope, but there was a lot of rope drag at the 5.10c crux. We only had 3 single length slings, an extra one would have helped on a placement just below the crux.

The last two pitches to the top are good quality. Don't be lulled by the 5.8 rating on the first one, it still has a balance move that is committing. The last pitch is good face and crack climbing.

An excellent, quality climb with good rock throughout.

I liked the first pitch of steep corner climbing which starts just right of Red Shirt. There are a couple placements, but it is mainly bolted. The second pitch is an easier bolted pitch up an arete.

The third pitch has sustained face climbing and a technical crux. I eventually had to aid it as I either couldn't figure it out or I wasn't strong enough to hang on for the move. There is a flake that you can grab to pull yourself on to a good foot hold, but the terrain is kicked back and I couldn't pull it.

From here, prickly climbing takes you to the main crux pitch. The beginning of the crux pitch is steeper than it looks and has a few good moves right off the station. The crux overhang is very awesome and has excellent moves on non prickly rock. I didn't have the stamina to link them all so I had some exciting airtime 30m below the lip of Yamnuska. A long reach seems helpful to get to the third last clip, go for the leftmost hold here. I was able to reach it by putting my left foot over on the large ledge and pressing up.

The final pitch is a tedious, technical prickly face climb with plenty of thin moves.

Climb an easy pitch up on to the ledge slightly left of the Forbidden Corner.

Climb up and angle right and steep ground with sparce protection to get into the Corner. Continue up some excellent corner crack climbing to the belay.

Climb several pitches straight up the corner. This is the 5.10a variation and it is really good. On the last pitch of the Corner, watch out for a loose block that is mudded in to the cliff on the left side of the Corner. It feels like it will come out soon and it would take out your belayer.

From the top of the Corner, make two traversing pitches to the left. On the second one, the 5.6 run out slab variation is run out but it is 5.6. It is positive climbing.

Climb up to the top of a dubious flake and make a few face moves to the right. The flake is sketchy looking, climb gingerly.

Now comes the exciting traverse pitch which is exposed and has some thin moves. We protected the second by using a second rope which was not clipped until half way back across the upper traverse. This way the second always had one rope above them. It is probably best to make a station here so you can see what your second is up to.

Move left to the standard belay then climb the broad corner to the top. Watch the loose rock at the lip.

Climb a straight forward 5.6 pitch to a pin and gear belay on a ledge left of the corner.

Climb up and left into a corner. Climb this then make an exposed traverse left. Stay low. Continue up and left to a large ledge. Follow this to the large corner with a piton belay.

Climb the corner to a rubbly ledge. Climb the next corner and traverse right on the ledge to an offwidth/chimney. Climb this to the belay which has pins and a bolt.

Climb up then into a chimney with no protection. It is easier to climb out of the chimney, but that is quite exposed on lead. Once inside the chimney there is no chance of falling out and there is pro in there. Move right from the top and traverse way over to a bolt and wiggly pin belay (a #1 Camalot fits here) by some trees.

Climb straight up from here into the broad corner above. Awesome steep crack moves take you to almost to the top of this. There is a bolt here somewhere, I didn't see it, but there is also tons of good gear. Just before things get really steep, move right into the next corner. Make a few steep moves up this, then traverse right on easier ledges to a bolted belay.

Climb the staunch weakness above. Don't get lulled into a false sense of security by the plethora of bolts at the bottom. It gets more exciting above. Also, don't go right too early for the final crux, climb 3m above the chopped station, then go right on the obvious foot ramp. The moves on this final face are not well protected.

Climb the hand and fist crack off the belay, then make exposed well protected moves to the right. Cross one corner and continue up and right onto a face. Climb the crack/water runnel feature up to a pin, then make a face move to a bolt. There is a good hand hold up and left. Continue face climbing and clip a vintage 1/4" bolt when you are starting to feel run out. THIS IS A CANDIDATE FOR REPLACEMENT! Make easier moves to a beautiful ledge with a piton belay.

Climb two pitches of spectacular corner crack with a few overhangs. Use your large pro wisely or bring and extra #3.

Climb the 5.5 ramp to a double station. There are two bolted stations here.

Continue up and left across loose ledges to a comfortable bolt belay below a left facing corner leading to the roof above.

Climb the corner then traverse right. There is a piton around the corner with a long sling on it. Looks like it won't hold you. Be careful of the handholds. I climbed up under the roof and the two large holds that are covered in chalk are just two rocks sitting on the ledge. They aren't attached. I think it would be good to replace the piton with a good bolt, because the traverse is on vertical ground and it would be easy to pull a bad handhold off. Traverse into the right facing corner. You may need to arrange protection for your second as there is not much to had on the traverse. Climb up the corner to a bolted belay.

Climb the awesome, wide, grovelly, steep layback, stemming and offwidth pitch above. There is excellent pro and interesting wooden relics from the first ascent. Move left above to a gear belay.

Climb up the nice right facing corner above. It gets really nice then comes to a small roof. Move left hear and find the bolted station above. There are two to choose from.

Climb an excellent pitch with two overhanging crack problems. Put some pro in the crack above the second overhang for your second. I didn't and my second swung over to the bottom of the descent part of the pitch and missed the overhang. Clip a bolt at the station on the ledge above then downclimb on thin holds and move left and up to an exposed belay station. You end up on the edge of the large roof above the last belay. You should arrange proper protection for your second on the downclimb traverse section.

Go left around the buttress, yee haw. This is a very cool few moves of very exposed well protected climbing. Climb the crack to the top.

Great climb, good work Inge!

This is the original 1952 ascent route of Mt Yamnuska and it is a cool route, especially if you read up on the first ascent and try to imagine what it was like to climb this back then in the style it was done. It was my first time up the route. Leo, Isabel and my Dad are impressive.

To get to the route, hike up the main climbers' trail to the base of the cliff. Hike to the left along the base and cross a scree bowl. Take rockfall precautions! At the other side of the scree bowl start working your way up through the loose breaks and climb towards the left hand part of the chimney/gully complex above. The route is relatively beaten in, but it still has a lot of loose rock on it. Follow the left hand chimneys intermixed with short corner and face sections until you get to the classic last pitch. The final chimney is incredible. It is a deep gash into the mountain and it ends in with a tunnel. Very cool.

This is another of my Father's classic Yamnuska routes. Most of the pitches are good and many of them are long, 45 to 60m. The first two pitches are sustained and have good pro. Some of the holds are polished. The third pitch is easier and follows broken cracks. The fourth pitch is a short climb up the corner. On the fifth pitch, there is an exposed traverse, then an interesting corner crack leading up to a cave like belay with a great ledge. The sixth pitch starts with an exposed, solid move around the bulge to the right and continues up to a refrigerated crack/cave below a big roof. On the seventh pitch the route goes left on to the arete, passing an alternative station. From here it goes up to make a 60m pitch ending on an exposed ledge. The final pitch is the most interesting. It starts with a jamming move over a bulge, then comes a big stem and jam to overcome a large chockstone. Above this you have to wriggle behind another chockstone, take your pack off, then make some exposed face moves to the top. Be careful of rope drag on this pitch, especially at the large chockstone, or break up the pitch.

It was great to think of the original ascent of this route in 1957. It is a lot easier now and the route still has plenty of spice.

Hike up the hardpan covered in scree to the left of Takakkaw Falls. Just right of the top of the cone look for bolts on the smoother rock above a rubbly ledge. Climb the bolts, traverse the gully feature and climb up to a knoll/ledge with a chain rap station.

Climb the bolts directly above to a chain rap station.

Traverse right on the ledge, pass a chain rap station, pass several bolts along the ledge. Angle up right to find a belay in the rubbly ledges. Good luck. There is a station in the middle of the broad bowl on the small ledge that comes from the base of the steeper part of the pillar feature next to the waterfall.

Walk across the small ledge and look for bolts as you approach the pillar. There are two bolted stations at the end of the ledge.

Look for bolts left of the pillar and climb this line up water washed rock to a chain station in the corner next to the pillar.

Continue up the corner to the most beautiful belay stance in the world. Chain station.

Follow bolts up and continue to the next chain station on the ledge above.

Continue straight up over poor rock with little or no pro to a two bolt station where the rock improves.

Climb up past one bolt tot a chain station at the mouth of the cave.

Overall the rock is poor, loose, the approach is pretty bad, the climbing alternates between good and poor, but the climb and the experience are incredible. This is one of the most impressive settings to climb and there is a treat at the top. Bring your headlamp.

This route offers exposed, steep climbing with two exciting traverses and an awesome two pitch hand crack to finish.

Climb up to a belay near a small tree and a large flake that you can sling. (5.6) 40m

Climb up then traverse left, stay low and keep your hands on the nice looking ledge. I tried to walk across this and had to backtrack. Climb up to the big corner ledge. (5.8) 30m

Climb up just right of the chimney then cut left into the corner. Climb up to the next ledge. (5.8)

Climb the left hand crack system to the exposed traverse to the right. Negotiate this then climb up a few metres to a belay by a tree. (5.9) 30m

Follow the corner up left, then face climb and traverse left with scant pro on easier ground. Climb the right facing corner crack to the top. Clip the bolt then downclimb the other side to the belay. (5.7) 45m

Climb the hand crack to a belay ledge. There is a 5.8 or 5.9 move at the bottom then it is a long pitch of 5.7. Spread out your gear as the size is consistent. (5.8) 55m

Climb up the tricky move from the right side of the ledge, then continue up the crack. Build a belay below the final left facing corner. (55m) or go to the top and belay off of sketchy chicken heads just below the crest. (60m) (5.9)

A sustained climb that has hard cruxes for the grade.

The first pitch has a bolted smearing lieback move off of a small arete. Grab the arete up high, get your feet high on the rough parts of the wall and pull left. Move your hands and feet up until you can step into the groove right of the arete. (5.10b) gear belay

The second pitch has a short, committing finger traverse on small gear. A #1, red, C3 protects the move well and fits in the obvious horizontal spot above the wider left crack. I found that you can get a very good foot jam high in the left crack that helps for the reach over and left. The final moves to the anchors are slightly run out by modern standards but the climbing is easier. (5.10b) bolted belay

The third pitch is a bolted face pitch. The bolts are sparse and rusty or old. There are 3 good bolts on the pitch. You can also place a .3 Camalot. The pitch was dirty, lots of pine needles. The final moves from the Metolius rap hanger around the bulge was very dirty. There used to be a rap station here but someone chopped one of the bolts. (5.10a) Rap from the single Metolius rap hanger or continue to the proper anchor on the top. You might need a broom, or if you are a good face climber, climb over the bulge to the top, it is clean but harder.

The first pitch is pumpy. I went a little too high before putting in my last piece before the crux, a #1 C3, and I had a hell of a time working up the nerve to move back down and put it in. Elvis lives!

The second pitch starts with a nice finger corner crack that transitions to an offwidth layback. Above this is a meandering wide crack.

All anchors are bolted and outfitted with large rap rings. The last anchor is a set of regular rap rings.

Climb the moist left facing corner. It wasn't as slimy as it looks and there are great foot jams for the right foot. When possible reach up right and climb up onto the ledge above. Follow the hand crack back into the corner and to the anchor.

Climb the shallow corner up to the crux at the top. the corner takes a variety of gear, but the crux is thin. I didn't stop to put anything in. There might be some placements for C3's lower down in the crux section. Look for the jug on the right at hte top of the crux.

Climb the wet corner, then move right, clip the bolt and head to the anchor. There is also a bolt in the corner just before you move right. I didn't see it.

Continue up the corner and clip the bolt at the top of the pinnacle. Downclimb until you can get into the right facing corner crack. Climb up this and don't put in any pro until you are well above the bolt if you want to protect your second. If you don't like this idea, leave a quicklink on the bolt and belay from the bottom of the pinnacle. Move left before the tree and follow large cracks to the next anchor or continue past the tree which is supposed to be harder.

Climb a short cruxy pitch up a right facing corner, up onto the slab above (bolt) and face climb to the anchors. The move onto the slab is spicy. I got onto the slab at the obvious foot hold but then there are two tough face moves up to the next good stance. Maybe you can get onto the slab higher up? Either way it is well protected by the bolt.

The first pitch is a bit awkward with larger cracks and steep steps (5.8) Gear belay.

Second pitch is easier and as some semi chimney moves near the top. (5.8) Ends on a large ledge with a gear belay.

Third pitch starts with an awkward move in the corner, then eases with nice finger cracks on the left hand face of the corner. There is a big traverse across the main corner to the left at the top of the pitch. There is pro for the second. (5.9) Bolted belay with rap chains. Looks like you could rap into the gully or to some good trees with a 60m from here.

Pitch 4 and 5 climbs the beautiful corner crack. There is a thin crux right off the start with good stemming. Another crux comes where the next corner crack steepens below the first alcove. This one is very short. The larger alcove above has some awkward, positive moves. (5.10a/b) 55m to a chain anchor.

Pitch 6 is a short climb up the cracks above. (5.7)

Take the trail just past the gravel pullout/landfill at 1.45km on the Mamquam Rd. There is a No Dumping sign at the start of the trial and the trail follows a very old road for the first 50m. It is also marked with orange diamonds nailed to the trees. Hike up about 20 to 30 minutes. The climb is just to the left on the black slab when you get to the bottom of the cliff.

Climb up to the finger and hand crack that goes up the middle of the slab, it starts about 15m up. Climb this until the angle eases or you run out of rope. Build a gear anchor. (5.8) 50m

Climb up the rest of the crack and into the corner below a funky cedar tree. Climb the corner to a bolt belay just above the tree. (5.7) 30m

Climb the steep hand crack/corner. When you reach the top climb immediately up the face on the left. Go up a few metres, then traverse left to the next corner. There is a spot for a .3 Camalot at the beginning of the traverse. You can somewhat protect your second if you run it out from here to the bolt belay and flick your rope over the stump on the right. (5.10b) 30m

Climb the dirty corner up to the next bolt belay. (4th low 5th) 20m

Climb the dirty vegetated crack systems to the top. There are a few dead trees to negotiate and plenty of dirt at the bottom. The climbing improves about a 1/4 of the way up. There are some nice moves in multiple cracks and there is a final chimney at the top. (5.10a) 50m

This climb is sustained throughout and offers difficult climbing on 3 of the 4 pitches.

The first pitch is the longest and most difficult. It starts with a steep move in to a wide layback crack. this is followed by some moves through steep small ledges, then the finger crack traverse crux. There are good feet for the first part of the traverse, then a move scanty footholds. My finger lock popped out the first time I tried the move, maybe because I was sweating like a pig. After the traverse a steep hand and fist crack slowly eases until you get to the rap anchor. (5.10d) 55m

Next, a short pitch of 5.7. I think you could bypass this anchor and continue, but it is a good belay spot. (5.7) 15m

Climb easily right then up the right facing corner. The climbing gets progressively thinner and tougher until the very end of the pitch. The crux is protected by a bolt and there is one more #1 C3 placement if you want it. There are quite a few places to stem in the corner and get a good rest. Bolted station. (5.10c) 45m

Climb the overhanging flakes above the station. These moves are bolt protected. The crux move is right at the start. Continue up and right along ledges to the bolted station at the top. (5.10c) 40m

Climb the beautiful 5.10a corner to a bolted rap station. Some people ahead of us traversed from here along a ledge into Jungle Warfare. 30m

Move right then climb the shallow corner up to an overhead arch with a line of flakes leading to the left. The moves are airy and solid with good pro. From the ledge, climb the short chimney corner, then traverse right on the lower angle slab to a birch tree. The traverse crack is thin and can be protected with a #1 C3. Climb the steep, very thin corner for about three moves past two pitons. There is also a museum piece bolt here that should fall off any day. There is not much for the feet and the holds are small. From the alcove above on the left, there is a spot for a 0 or #1 C3 here if you want it, use a sling, step right and do one more balancy move into Jungle Warfare. Belay here, or continue up another 10m to the ledge. (5.11a) 30m to ledge