The Word from Mount 7

Yosemite Valley
Royal Arches Area
Royal Arches 5.7 A0
11 pitches
October 18th, 2007
O. Sofer and R. Gmoser

Royal Arches is a long moderate route through interesting and beautiful terrain. The climb starts off with a slick 5.6 chimney that warms you up. From the top of this you travel along a large ledge for several rope lengths. If you know what to do, you can travel together and just pitch out some 15 to 20m steps. Most of the ledge is 3rd class but the steps are water polished and serious. At the pin scarred crack, we began pitching out the climbing and got to the top of the rap route in 8 pitches with a 60m rope. If you do this you need good communication because you will be a long way and around a few corners from your partner. The climbing is fun and varied. There is one tricky block with a wide steep crack, which is just around the corner from the big tree belay, one pitch after the pendulum. Other than that, the climbing is fairly straightforward and entertaining. You need to stick your feet on the pendulum swing because the rock is slick.

We followed the SuperTopo rap descent which is good but tedious. It is set up for shorter ropes so many of the raps are short. The SuperTopo description seems to get you the most bang for the buck in terms of linking stations.

This is a good longer route to do. The setting is beautiful, the climbing is varied and good quality, and the length of the climb adds to the appeal.